Prrenjas to Struga – July 10th
Distance: 24.0 km – Elevation +540 m -430 m
Weather: Sunny with short rain shower. Temperature: High 25 degrees
Today I crossed the border into North Macedonia and my Albanian adventure came to an end. The forecast for the day was thunderstorms and knowing that I had a tough climb to reach the border I wanted an early start to avoid the rain that was due to arrive around mid-morning.
I always let the hotel know what time I will be leaving to ensure that I have a way out and last night was no different. On returning to the hotel after dining I spoke to the manager and told him I would be leaving at 5.00 am and he assured me I would be able to exit via the back door and gate. I didn’t sleep well, the room was stuffy with no air conditioning and I was glad to see daybreak and feel the freshness of the early morning air. The back door opened okay but the gate was locked! The gate was 6 feet high and bounded by similar size walls and too high for me to clamber over. I returned to the hotel and tried the front door but it was locked and then searched the yard for an alternative exit. Eventually, I found a step ladder, so I threw my rucksack over the wall, and using the stepladder I was soon on the other side.
It was 5.30 am when I left the hotel, the morning air was warm but fresh as I passed the Prrenjasit Reservoir located on the edge of this small town. I followed the main road and came to the small community of Kostriçan, where a cafe appeared to be acting as a transit point for workers and travellers, with minibuses and cars arriving and departing at regular intervals. It was also the last stopping place before the border crossing. As I approached the village, the village dogs, totally ignoring everyone else, selected me as their target and I had to resort to my walking stick to stop their noisy attention. I stopped at the cafe for breakfast and watched as many of those arriving by car were seeking lifts which I guessed were being sought, to take them across the border into North Macedonia.
From the cafe, the Via Egnatia route leaves the main road and starts to climb first to meet and walk along the disused railway track, and then a steep ascent following a small mountain stream. It was not an easy climb but the views back across the plains of Prrenjas were outstanding. At one point I lost the path and met an Albanian man astride his mule coming down the mountain who greeted me with a wonderful smile and he was able to direct me to the path I needed. It was 8.30 am when I reached the top with views on one side, of the Albanian mountains I had passed through, and on the other side of Lake Ohrid which would be my companion for the next few days. I followed the road for a short distance to reach the Qafë Thanë border crossing. Qafë is the Albanian word for a pass and Thanë is the location. The border crossing is at an elevation of 3600 feet. There were no queues and going through on the Albanian side I was greeted with a typical Albanian smile and asked by the friendly border guard “where are you going?”, “Jerusalem” I replied, “Did you like Albania?”, “yes I loved your country and your people”, “would you like me to stamp your passport?” and finally as he returned my passport he bid me “good luck”. So my Albanian journey ended as it had started with warmth and kindness.
At the North Macedonia post, the border guard took my passport, looked at me, and returned my passport without a word or trace of emotion and I moved into North Macedonia. From the border the Via Egnatia followed a rural track through pasture and woodlands as it descended to Lake Ohrid. It was a beautiful walk along the tree lined track with tantalising glimpses through the trees of Lake Ohrid and as I reached Radozda the dirt road turns to stone which is claimed to be the original Via Egnatia.
Once by the lakeshore, it started to rain and I took shelter in a lakeside bar with wonderful views across the blue waters of the lake. It was just a short shower and I continued on to reach Struga in mid-afternoon.
