Arnissa to Edessa – July 19th
Distance: 22.7 km – Elevation +150 m -380 m
Weather: Sunny. Temperature: High 28 degrees
The main street of Arnissa was already busy when I left the B&B at 8.00 am and as I passed a small workshop two aggressive dogs came bounding out and were yapping at my heels before their apologetic owner came and called them off. Just outside of Arnissa I came to the “Monument of the Fallen” erected in memory of those soldiers who died in November 1912 at the battle of Ostrovo (You can read the history of the battle below)
After the short climb out of Arnissa it was all flat or downhill walking for the rest of the day. This is fruit growing country and it was not long before I found myself singing an old English folk song -“Cherry ripe, cherry ripe, ripe I cry, full and fair ones, come and buy” – as I passed mile after mile of cherry orchards on my journey to Edessa. Cherries are harvested here in May and I can imagine how these orchards would have looked with the spring blossom and later full with cherries. Appropriately I passed a sign that said: “Cherry Land”.
About 8 kilometres from Edessa I came to Lake Agra out of which the Edessios river flows and this is the source of the waterfalls in Edessa. It was lunchtime when I came to the village of Agras and called into a family run bar and cafe. The lady owner was so welcoming and we had great fun trying to communicate and understand my request for a beer. A Russian visitor to the village who spoke very good English was able to translate and I was able to explain about my pilgrimage – this was followed by an animated conversation in Greek by all present. Anyway, I got my beer. The Russian man came and chatted with me and was giving me advice about the dangers of walking through Turkey. As I was about to leave the lady owner appeared with a toasted cheese and ham sandwich wrapped in foil to take with me on my journey – she was lovely and hugged me as we said our farewells.
The afternoon was hot as I approached Edessa and I met a group of young men and women dressed in swimming gear and they asked if I had passed the waterfall. When I explained I had not seen it they continued on despite the doubts I had obviously created. I arrived in Edessa and my bed for the night, the Hotel Alfa at 3.00 pm
“The History of the Battle of Ostrovo
The Greek Army with its victorious advance from Sarandaporo, Kozani (8-10 October 1912) and Giannitsa (19-20 October 1912), liberated parts of Western and the whole of Central Macedonia.
But as a victor and trophy-winner entered Thessaloniki, on the day of the patron saint of Agios Dimitrios (October 26), the Turks, based in the Monastery, reorganized their forces, launched surprise attacks and, after forcing the 5th Division to retreat to they recaptured Amynteo, the basin of Vegoritida and reached the outskirts of Edessa.
The Greek General Staff ordered four divisions to move from Thessaloniki to Edessa to repel the Turkish attack. The Greek forces moved quickly and on November 1 they arrived in Skydra, where the 1st Division with the Headquarters remained.
The 3rd and 4th divisions moved in a circle while the 6th undertook the frontal attack against the Turkish forces that had developed in the heights of Drosia of Xantogeia and Arnissa.
The battle of Ostrovo began at noon on November 4 and ended victoriously for the Greek army in the morning hours of November 5, 1912, with the entry of the 1st Evzoni Regiment in Arnissa. This victory of our army is considered decisive for the liberation, then, of Amyntaio (November 6) and Florina (November 7).
There were dozens of wounded in the battle as well as three dead soldiers who were buried in the area of the clashes. Their bones were later transferred to another location, and their names were found in the archives of the General Staff of the Army, and a special monument was erected in their honour today.
(The text by the teacher and author Mr Ioannis Papalazarou) “
