Karaman to Sertavul – 8th October
Distance: 38.4 km – Elevation +780 m -420 m
Weather: Sunny. Temperature: High 22 degrees
Whilst waiting for dinner last night I was reading about the rich historical past of this now modern city. It is one of Turkey’s most ancient settlements, with a history that dates back to the 10th century BC when the Hittites ruled in Anatolia. After passing through the hands of the Phrygian, the Lycian, the Persian and the Hellenistic empires, it was ruled by the Roman and later Byzantine Empire until it was captured by the Seljuks in the early 12th century. It was occupied by Frederick Barbarossa during the third crusade and later after the Mongol invasion, it became the capital of the Karamanoğlu principality which ruled in Anatolia for close to two hundred years before it was replaced by the Ottoman empire.
Throughout my journey from Rome, I have been following the footsteps of Paul the Apostle and close to Karaman is ancient Derbe which is mentioned in the Acts of the Apostles and where Paul and Barnabas lived for a while after their escape from Iconium.
Last night’s history lesson was very much in mind when I left the hotel at 7.30 am after a good breakfast and set off to find my way through the suburbs of Karaman, I had decided to take the main road route following the Mersin Karaman Yolu, to the village of Medreselik, a walk of around 30 kilometres, where I hoped to find a bed for the night. I had sent a message to the village last night but had not yet received a reply. I had walked just a kilometre when I realised I had left my overnight washing in the hotel, so I had to return, wasting close to an hour.
It was 9.00 am when I eventually reached the main road to start the climb to Medreselik. It was a pleasantly warm and sunny day but there was a persistent headwind. The road was wide and straight and stretched far into the distance as I pushed against the wind. It wasn’t long before the driver of a passing tractor and trailer chugging up the hill, struggling against the gradient, shouted and gestured for me to jump into the trailer as it slowly passed and as always the driver seemed perplexed at my refusal of his kind offer.
The ascent from Karaman was the beginning of my climb through the Central Taurus Mountains and I was looking forward to being back in the mountains. The road was very quiet with hardly any traffic and the view back to Karaman with its backdrop of Mount Karadag was spectacular and inspirational. The landscape on either side of the road was varied and interesting, sometimes woodlands, sometimes fertile farmland and sometimes barren scrubland but the colours of golds, browns and greens were beautiful as they met the pale blue cloud free sky.
It was midday when I came to the Gökçe Çamlığı Mesire Yeri, a designated picnic area run by the district Forestry Directorate. It was a pleasant spot to stop to rest and eat my lunch, a sandwich and fruit which I had purchased from a small supermarket in Karaman. It was here that I received a reply from the village of Medreselik, “unfortunately we have no place to stay in our village, but there is a hotel 10 km ahead sertavul there”. Whilst disappointing the message was also encouraging, at least I knew accommodation existed in Sertavul, even though it would add an extra 10 kilometres to an already tough day.
So it was head down as I continued to climb fighting against the prevailing wind. The road eventually reached the summit of the day’s walk, the Sertavul Pass. It had been a tough, tough climb, rising 2500 feet to an elevation of 5500 feet, but it was also spectacular and beautiful. Photos never truly show what the eye sees but hopefully they give a feel of the beauty of today’s walk.
From the summit of the pass, I had wonderful views of the valley below. It was a steep descent for the remaining 5 kilometres to reach Sertavul. Google maps was showing what appeared to be the only hotel in the village, located on a side road that descended into the valley from the main road, but the minor road on which it was supposedly located came to an abrupt end. I saw an elderly man who was in his garden and I asked “Otel?” He indicated to follow him but the only way to do so required a climb up an almost vertical bank, which after my day’s toils was beyond me. So I backtracked to the main road and walked into the village where I found a service station complex including a restaurant and small hotel. I asked at reception and yes they had a room available, my relief was palpable!
It was 5.30 pm and I had made remarkably good time despite the persistent headwind, having covered 39 kilometres and climbed 2500 feet in elevation in 10 hours. I showered and washed my clothes and after resting I walked to the restaurant. Being clearly a resting place for passing motorists and lorry drivers, it was a hive of activity. The manager came to greet me and we had a good conversation about my journey through Turkey. For supper, I opted for mutton chops, salad and yoghurt, the chops were priced per kilo and I had a good few, so the bill for supper was more than usual, but I must say I enjoyed it. It had been a long tough but very satisfying day. Tomorrow it is all downhill!
