Ofrynio to Parellia Mirtofitou – August 11th
Distance: 27.0 km – Elevation +140 m -130 m
Weather: Sunny. Temperature: High 29 degrees
What a difference a day makes! I slept well after yesterday’s marathon and rose at 5.30 am ready for the day ahead. The Via Egnatia route wanted to take me back 5 kilometres to a start at Amphipolis for an onward journey to Rodlivos, followed by the next stage to Philippi before reaching Kavala, in all a 3 day journey. I had already passed through Rodlivos and visited Philippi during my rest break at Thessaloniki, so I decided to follow the coast road to Kavala and what a wonderful walk it has been along vast stretches of almost deserted beaches – spectacular views of the azure blue seas and a refreshing breeze coming from the sea. I had no end destination in mind when I started – no accommodation arranged. There is a certain sense of freedom not being tied to a specific route and destination.
I left the hotel at 6.30 am and walked on the beach by a perfectly calm sea with just the sound of the gentle lapping of the tiny waves as they reached the shore to keep me company. It was a Sunday morning and like yesterday morning as I left Stavros, the town was deserted as I walked past the many beach bars and hotels. The beaches too were empty. Around 8.30 am I came to the small Port of Karyani where a small crowd had gathered around a white van. I walked towards the van and saw that a local fisherman was selling his morning catch. Karyani was just waking, and there were more people now beginning their day. I stopped for coffee in a beach bar and a little after I came to a small supermarket where I was able to buy food and drink for a later lunch.
The route kept close to the sea with hardly a moment when the sea was not visible. There were glorious views of the Island of Thasos and such a choice of beaches. Around midday I came to Achinopetra beach and decided to stop for lunch, bread and cheese, tomatoes and fruit purchased earlier from the supermarket. I felt wonderfully relaxed, so different to the struggles of yesterday.
There was some road walking but it was quiet with little traffic and there were plenty of areas of shade where I could sit and rest with views out across the Aegean sea. I crossed the Marmaras Potamos, which translates as the Marble River at the point where it enters the sea. Later in the afternoon I came to the village of Eleftheres and the Byzantine Tower of Apollonia where there was a mobile canteen in a nearby layby and I enjoyed a hot dog and a glass of cold beer looking out across the sea to Thasos.
Around 4.30 pm I decided to look for somewhere to stay and came to the small community of Paralia Mirtofitou where I called into the Michalēs restaurant at the rear of a large house I ordered a beer and at the same time asked the waitress if I was able to stay in the house. At first she seemed enthusiastic and said she would ask and come back to me but later when I reminded her she seemed agitated and said she was too busy. So I left and a little after I came to a similar restaurant, Éllēnas, again at the rear of a large house and this time the staff were much more helpful and the restaurant manager introduced me to the elderly lady owner who showed me to a spacious room with glorious views of the sea. A gloriously peaceful and enjoyable day.
