Broshke to Elbasan – 5th July
Distance: 23.0 km – Elevation +170 m -110 m
Weather: Sunny. Temperature: High 34 degrees
The ‘ AutoGrill’ where I stayed last night was not an experience to be missed! Surprisingly I slept well and woke at 4.30 am for a 5 am start. I looked in on the caretaker but he was sleeping on a camp bed inside a small building on the forecourt of the filling station. I followed the main road for 2.5 kilometres and after passing a communist-era industrial estate I crossed a bridge that took me across the Shkumbin to the village of Valas and the Via Egnatia track. A little later the track was blocked by a high gate and fence with no way through. I spoke with an elderlr Albanian man who was passing but he shook his head not understanding my words. There was a perimeter track to the right which I followed but that soon became a quagmire and then a knee-deep river. I eventually crossed over a dyke via a plank, placed I guess by farmworkers, into a field and found tracks that took me through an area of great poverty where three aggressive dogs appeared out of nowhere. I find my walking stick is a great help in such circumstances, held at length it keeps the dogs at distance and then if they persist I raise it in a striking motion and usually they retreat.
Following a perfectly straight rural track for about 2 kilometres I met a friendly farmer and asked for directions to Elbasan and he indicated to just continue to follow the straight track which disappeared into the distance. Ignoring his advice I turned left at the next crossroads and walked into the village of Muriqan. I found a small bar and cafe and stopped for breakfast.
It was also a day of meeting the Albanian people in their own environment. Between Jagodine and Bujqes I saw a man looking out of an open window of what appeared to be a shed I went over and shook hands and he gave me a glass of water and then realising I was English he invited me inside.It was the village shop and soon his family and neighbours came to meet me. The shopkeeper’s young daughter spoke perfect English and I was able to explain why I was walking through their village. She told me she was in her second year of study in psychology at Elbasan university, and her faith was Islam but we talked of one God and I explained it was when walking that I found the love of God in the people I meet as I did today. I told her that I have found nothing but kindness and generosity from the people of Albania.
I arrived in Elbasan at 1.00 pm and walked into a hive of activity. The streets were full of market stalls selling livestock, vegetables, fabrics, and tools, and the pavements crowded with shoppers. Weaving my way through the crowds I arrived at and checked into my prearranged hotel. After showering and resting. I set off to explore Elbasan, especially the historic centre, and in the evening I enjoyed one of the most delicious suppers I have had since leaving Rome in reputedly the best restaurant in town. As I sat drinking an after dinner coffee and Albanian brandy, I decided I would stay another day in Elbasan.
