Durres to Golem – 30th June
Distance: 20.2 km – Elevation +170 m -170 m
Weather: Sunny. Temperature: High 34 degrees
I said goodbye to my new Australian friends this morning, they were catching a bus to Struga and from there to Athens.
Walking out of Durres it appears to be a prosperous, well kept and lively city – lots of bars and restaurants. Rather than follow the coast road to Golem I decided to take the back rural route – I am glad I did as I passed through small villages with Sunday markets. I met many Albanians, especially younger ones who were keen to practice their English – one told me as a waiter in England he could earn more in a month than he could in a year doing the same job in Albania.
I stopped for coffee, about 8 kilometres out of Durres, at a small cafe and was greeted by the proprietor with a wonderful smile. Much of the early walk to Golem was along unmade roads through the rural suburbs of Durres. I eventually joined the coast road 5 kilometres from my destination. I stopped for lunch in a restaurant close to the sea and enjoyed a caesar salad followed by a tasty risotto. It was interesting to note the significant difference between the prices in Albania compared with those I had been experiencing in the past month during my journey through Italy. This meal including two glasses of beer was just 1150 leke (£8). The small hotel I had booked was difficult to find but was very comfortable and my hosting family very friendly. Again the cost was so much cheaper than Italy – £15 for the night.
It was a balmy evening as I took a stroll by the sandy beach and sat in a small bar enjoying a gin and tonic (the first since leaving home) watching a glorious sunset over the Adriatic, and reflecting on my first day of walking in Albania.
