Elbasan-Mirakë – 7th July
Distance: 25.3 km – Elevation +620 m -570 m
Weather: Sunny. Temperature: High 36 degrees
I started early this morning as it was forecast to be a scorcher of 37 degrees and I had a big hill to climb. It was still dark at 4.30 am as I left Elbasan but street lights showed the city already coming to life with street traders vying for the best positions to sell their produce. Dawn began to break as I walked through the village of Hajdaran with the first hint of the rising sun behind the distant hills. I passed a recreation area with ponds and century old Plane trees known locally as Bysheku. The Via Egnatia book tells me it is a historical resting area where traders and their caravans would stop. The first two hours flew by and by 6.30 am I reached the centre of the village of Shushice. The main square appeared to act as a transport hub and even at that time of the morning it was a hive of activity with minibusses and taxis ferrying the local residents to their place of work. I stopped at a busy cafe/bar for breakfast where I met my first Albanian policeman. I was joined by another Albanian who spoke good English and he relayed to the policeman why I was there that day.
From Shushice the climb started, at first straight and then curving around the side of the mountain. The banks and trees provided a degree of shade as the heat of the sun announced its presence. It was at first a gentle easy climb with magnificent views back across the plains of the Shkumbin valley with workers already busy in the fields below. It was incredibly peaceful and hardly a sound could be heard and I felt a moment of real contentment. But suddenly the tranquility was disturbed by a cavalcade of cars which came down the mountain road decorated with balloons and coloured ribbons, and horns tooting when they saw me, a celebration or marriage perhaps but this was 8.00 am on a Sunday morning.
Later and with the tranquility restored I met a young female shepherd with her small herd of mountain goats, she was very shy and uncertain, I think of me and did not want a photo taken. The climb continued, it was a fine day with clear blue skies and the views were magnificent and I could see far, far into the distance back to Elbasan. I reached the summit at a height of 2000 feet at just before 10.00 am and sat beneath the shade of a tree reflecting in the beauty of the moment, God’s creation in all its glory.
It was a gradual descent with views of the Shkumbin below. It was close to midday as I approached the village of Polis when I encountered an elderly Albanian gentleman collecting his pony from its overnight pastures and he walked with me on the way down. Somehow we were able to communicate and he pointed to a farmhouse and invited me to his home. You will never understand the hospitality of the Albanian people unless you experience it yourself, this was a three-generation family all living together in a well-kept humble abode, grandpa and grandma, son and his wife, and their two daughters, one of whom spoke English. They invited me to join them for lunch and the 40 year old son set about starting a fire to barbecue the lamb with chickens and turkeys running freely around as he cooked. I was invited into theiŕ home whilst awaiting lunch, and Bukurije the grandma was so happy to show me photos of her and her husband, Ramazan, of when they were young and first married. The son, Lulzim, appeared to be the family leader although I could see his dad would be capable of keeping him in his place if necessary. Lunch was served in their living room and eaten whilst seated on the floor. Coffee after on the outside terrace where I was also offered a glass of Raki, the son drank a lot of Raki. Katerina the young 13 year old daughter was a delight and so helpful. I enjoyed a delicious lunch in a wonderful Albanese home.I declined the offer of a lift to Marake from the raki enthused son and bid my farewells to another wonderful Albanian experience.
After leaving the farm the trail continued to turn its way down towards the valley. It was mid afternoon and temperatures were in the high thirties and I was beginning to tire as I reached the Lumi I Gostimes river which I crossed via a green suspension bridge and shortly after I crossed the Shkumbin via a bridge with crumbling parapet railings. The last kilometre to my intended destination was a real struggle.
My destination was the Hotel Ballkan where I hoped a room would be available and as I reached the entrance to the hotel gardens I met another walker who was looking rather disgruntled as he walked away from the hotel. He grumbled something to me as he passed me pointing in the direction of the hotel. I was really hot and dripping with sweat and needed to compose myself before entering the hotel so I sat for a while beneath a shade of a tree in the garden. When I entered the hotel I went straight to the bar and ordered a large glass of cooling beer and at the same time asked if they had a room available. I was told yes and a price of 40 euros was quoted. It was the highest price I had encountered in Albania and understood immediately why the disgruntled walker had left. I said to the manager “ that is the highest price I have experienced in Albania”, he smiled and replied in astonishment “ No that cannot be”. I had no other option but to accept.
The room was clean and comfortable with a terrace providing views of the garden. The shower had numerous buttons with no indication of what the individual buttons controlled, but eventually, I was able to take a much needed refreshing shower. In the evening I dined in the cool of the garden with the Shkumbin quietly flowing close by. I sat watching other diners come and go and reflected on the wonderful day I had just enjoyed.
