Mirakë-Dardhë – 8th July
Distance: 15.1 km – Elevation +270 m -180 m
Weather: Sunny. Temperature: High 34 degrees
Resort Balkan where I stayed last night was comfortable enough and the staff were very helpful and several spoke reasonable English, but they didn’t know how to serve a gin and tonic! It was very popular on a Sunday night as I dined, there were several families enjoying drinks and meals at adjacent tables with the river Shkumbin flowing slowly past. On retiring I told reception I would be checking out at 5.00 am and they said they would arrange for someone to serve me breakfast which was included in the rather exorbitant price of my room. I felt sorry for the young lad that was waiting patiently to serve my breakfast at such an early hour but he served it with a smile and I left him a good tip.
The Via Egnatia path followed a mountain route but after reading a friend’s notes about this section, where he describes a collapsed section of the path as dangerous, I decided to take the main road route to Librazhd to bypass the difficult section, and then find a cross-country route to pick up the track to Dardhe. The road was quiet at that time of morning and the walking shoulder wide enough to feel safe. The slow flowing and quiet Shkumbin river kept me company as it ran almost parallel with the road. It was a gentle climb to reach the outskirts of Librazhd and here I met a group of policemen and policewomen controlling traffic to allow a wide load to pass. The chief of the group welcomed me with open arms, he spoke several languages but no English so we settled on French! He arranged with the owner of a nearby cafe to serve me coffee even though the bar was closed. I sat on the terrace of the cafe looking down to the valley below where the Shkumbin river is joined by its tributary, the Rapuni river. I thanked the policeman as I left and asked about directions to Dardhe and he said the cross country route was difficult and suggested I continue to follow the main road, which I did.
A short while after I came to a filling station where I bought a couple of bottles of water. There was an open cafe next door and still feeling hungry after the earlier rushed breakfast I stopped for a second breakfast. Librazhd was very busy when I reached its centre, it is a market town and a hub for bus connections to most locations throughout Albania. The railway that passed through the town has long been closed. Whilst walking through the main street on my way out of town a crowded minibus stopped and the driver asked where I was going and I said Istanbul, he smiled and gestured for me to get into the minibus, he looked puzzled when I declined his offer.
The road continued to follow the Shkumbin river and became increasing dangerous for walking so to avoid the numerous blind bends, I took to the disused rail track which ran close to the road and met an elderly Albanian man walking in the other direction, he nodded his head and gave me a broad smile as he passed. I watched as a terrapin attempted, with great difficulty, to cross the rail track so I helped him on his way. Later after I returned to the road I came to a hotel with a cafe, where the local youth were playing cards on the terrace. I indicated I would like to be served and one of the group grudgingly rose and cleared a rather grubby table and then served my requested drink before returning to his card game. It was all a little weird.
It was just 11.00 am and 4 kilometres from Dardhe when I came to a small roadside hotel and service area complex. There was a self-service restaurant which was very busy with travellers who had arrived by minibus, coach, or car. Not too different to a motorway service station. I knew this was the last available accommodation for some distance, so I decided to ask if they had a room available. I asked one of the waiters who took me to a table at the end of the restaurant where the owner of the establishment was seated. I am not sure why but he seemed surprised at my request and called for the complex manager. He took me into the restaurant and indicated to sit at a vacant table and then disappeared. Returning 30 minutes later he told me yes a room would be available but not before several hours. So whilst waiting I enjoyed lunch from the self-service area and planned the next stages of my onward journey. One of the young waiters who spoke good English kept in regular contact to ensure I was comfortable.
The room when ready was plain and simple and clean with a good shower and air conditioning. I took a stroll in the garden which was well stocked with rose bushes and I met an elderly man trimming the bushes and trees, topiary at its best and a most unexpected sight. The complex was open night and day so I was able to enjoy dinner at a time suited to me.
