Golem to Kryeluz – 1st July
Distance: 25.5 km – Elevation +450 m -430 m
Weather: Sunny. Temperature: High 34 degrees
I slept well and with another hot day forecast and knowing the trail ahead had a few hills to climb I wanted an early start and was walking out of Golem by 6.00 am. Albania was still sleeping as I followed the tarmac road through the village of Tilaj.
After Tilaj the path left the road to join a farm track which led me through a rural landscape with a variety of crops including olive trees and vineyards. The dome shaped haystacks were something I had not seen before, as was my first sighting of a military bunker. During the communist era under the rule of Envar Hoxa close to 200,000 bunkers were built in Albania. By 10.00 am and with the combination of the hilly terrain and the hot morning sun beginning to take its toll I needed a break. I was close to the village of Zikularaj and came to a large irrigation lake with its blue waters glistening in the reflection of the sun. Removing my rucksack I sat on the bank of the lake to rest and at that moment a young shepherd came down from the village with a small flock of sheep and one cow to take water from the lake. He looked at me with surprise but as soon as I waved and smiled he walked to me. It was an interesting moment with no response to my words but he was fascinated by my walking gear. He was probably in his early teens and I noticed he carried an axe in his hand in a non-threatening manner. A short time into my rest break the tranquility was abruptly disturbed by large 8 wheel tipper lorries coming and going from the direction of the village creating clouds of dust thrown up from the white roads that surrounded the lake.
The trucks were a regular part of the next few kilometres, one driver kindly stopped and handed me a large bottle of water, but after passing two further lakes and coming to a point where the trail left the lorry route, I was totally covered in fine white dust!.
Next, I came to a stream just past the village of Helmas and after crossing the stream I totally lost the trail. The GPS route wanted to take me on an overgrown and totally impenetrable path. After many attempts, all thwarted by the overgrown underbrush, I had to retrace my steps and find an alternative route through woods to reach a track that enabled me to return to the needed path. So a 15 minute path turned into one of 75 minutes!
The afternoon temperature was above 35 degrees and whilst looking for a shady area for a cooling down break I met a farmworker resting on the ground in the shade of an isolated bush, with his donkey and cart standing motionless a few yards away. He beckoned me to join him and offered me water which was welcomed and a cigarette which I declined. I showed him the Via Egnatia guide I was carrying and he seemed to understand my journey and pointed in the direction I needed to take for the village of Memzote.
On reaching Memzote I met a group of teenage boys on bicycles and asked “Hotel?” and one who spoke a spattering of English replied “I will take you” and he stayed with me onwards through the village of Kryeuz, where I was able to buy food and drinks for later and tomorrow, and he took me to a road that ran parallel to the motorway where there was a rather grand building which although it had no signs he said was a hotel. On opening the door I entered an enormous entrance lobby with a large staircase at its far end and I was met by an elderly gentleman to whom the young lad spoke to in Albanian and he nodded and indicated to follow him. I thanked the young lad and offered him a few euros for his time which he refused but I insisted and he went on his way. The elderly gentleman led me upstairs and along a long corridor to a room at the end. It was enormous and like a time warp with old but functional furniture and a large bathroom.
I was totally exhausted after a long 12 hour day. I enjoyed a hot shower to remove the dust and sweat of the day, I washed my dusty clothes and relaxed with a supper prepared from the items purchased earlier from the village shop.
A long but very enjoyable day. A day about hills, getting lost, paths that go nowhere, beautiful countryside, donkeys, and meeting Albanian people.
