Loutra Volvis to Stavros – August 9th
Distance: 29.0 km – Elevation +130 m -170 m
Weather: Sunny. Temperature: High 28 degrees
I started early today and caught the beauty of the sun rising behind the mountains. I again elected to take the direct route bisecting the many loops of the Via Egnatia tracks, which without a guidebook, I do not understand the route chosen and from what I have read the Via Egnatia went north of the lake. I have decided to keep the bigger picture in mind – Jerusalem! Also in this heat, every mile saved is vital.
Nonetheless, it was a very interesting walk. Early on I stopped to take a photo of an unusual bridge when the backdraft of a passing lorry caused my hat to float like a flying saucer across the bridge to land in the dry river bed below. I had much fun retrieving it! There were the occasional roadside sellers of melons and fruit. I stopped at one and purchased a couple of large tomatoes, the man selling seemed not impressed with a small purchase! Later I stopped at another and selected two nectarines and when I went to pay the lady said ” I give to you ” with a huge smile and would not take payment. I passed tree nurseries selling all sorts of trees including mature olive and palm trees all in huge pots. Woodworkers advertising their wares with a display of huge chairs.
I stopped for a break by the shores of Lake Volvi where I found a shelter and sat in the shade watching a dinghy being rowed to a position in the lake ready for fishing. It was a beautiful scene. From the shelter I followed a delightful woodland lakeside path.
Unexpectedly I came to a recreation area just off the main road in the village of Modi. It was for visitors to the post-Byzantium Church of Agia Marina. There was a small shop where I purchased a cold drink and sat at the nearby tables watching people arriving and leaving after visiting the church.
“It was built in the 18th century, exactly on the 75th kilometer of the old road Thessaloniki – Kavala. A legend says that in that area one priest had his own vineyards. In one dream, Saint Marina appeared to him and showed him the tree in which her icon was. She ordered him to build a church dedicated to her and put the icon in it. The tree was cut, and there the icon was found, and so began the construction of this stone church.
The icon depicts Saint Marina, and is believed to be miraculous and that many have been cured of their illness before it. Every year, on July 17, there is a celebration dedicated to St. Marina.”
Generally today I found plenty of rest stops along the way, good stretches of shade and a cooling breeze in the afternoon which made for a very interesting and enjoyable walk.
I arrived in Stavros at 4.00 pm. It was the holiday season and clearly, Stavros is a destination of choice, and everywhere was busy. After settling into my B&B I walked to the shores of the Strymonian Gulf and the Thracian sea and enjoyed an early supper in one of the many restaurants that line the shore and then watched a glorious sunset as the sun sank behind the gentle waves of the sea.
